How to Read a Pattern 101

It is almost Halloween right? So, let's talk about some ScARy things of sewing. Reading a pattern is up there for me. Just thinking about it, I can feel the weight of the pattern in my hand and the glare of the lady at the cutting counter as she asks me for the third time, "Now, how much fabric did you want." Let's face it, this is scary stuff.

Once you look through the pattern book and find the dress or skirt that you want, look for the pattern number in the top left corner. Just to the right of the pattern number is the sizing. It is important that you buy the right pattern for your size. Usually for women's patterns there is a smaller sized pattern from 2-10 and a bigger sized patter from 8-16. Also, when you are buying women's pattern you want to buy and cut out one or two sizes bigger than your normal size. Women's patterns are sized small and it is much easier to take in a skirt than to cut out a new one.

On the back of the pattern you will find a list of everything that you need to make the item. Choose which view you want to make and then find that letter on the chart. The sizes run across the very top of the chart. Find your view (represented by a letter) then find your size. Where these meet will tell you how much fabric you will need.

There is also a "Notions" section. This will tell you everything that you need to make the dress. Look at this before you leave the store so that you make sure you have everything you need to complete the project.

When you open your pattern, you will find a few sheets of paper with instructions on it. The first one will have the cutting instructions.
There is also a diagram of all the pattern pieces. Under the diagram is a list of all the pieces with a letter to the right. The letters correspond with the view of the dress that you are making. If there are no letters to the right, then all views need those pieces. For example, pieces 1 and 2 on this pattern, will be cut out for all views of the skirt. A helpful hint: when I am figuring out which pieces to cut out, I mark the ones that I need with a little dot, so that I don't forget anything or cut out something I shouldn't.

This picture shows cutting layouts, so you can best use your fabric.

On the right corner of the front page, there is a "General Directions" page. It tells you all about the signs on the pattern pieces, how to lengthen and shorten your dress and other great things.

Each pattern piece has their number and description on it. This one is "#1 Front and Back". It tells you how many to cut and where to place the fabric. The notches or little triangles on the side are to be cut into the fabric. They will help you line up the other pieces when you sew them together.

So, did that help? I hope that you feel a little less fearful of that lady standing behind the counter. She really is just there to help (just ask her, she'll tell you).

Thank you Kara May

Kara May is a fantastic children's photographer here in Phoenix. She photographed my new fall line (found here). She always does such an amazing job. I LOVE these pictures. For more of the photo shoot, visit her blog.

Ruffle Skirt

This apron tutorial is from Krista Maurer's blog. I saw it and loved. It is also a wonderful way to practice the ruffling trick we talked about in the Flower Bag tutorial. This is an easy project, just a little bit time consuming.

My changes to the tutorial for more efficient fabric use:

I cut two 18"x 22" pieces for the apron base (she uses two 18" x 24" pieces)

and for the ruffles I made them 4" x 45", which is the width of the fabric, (she uses 4" x 36").

After I sewed all the ruffles on, I had to cut a little bit off the top of the apron base. I must have started my ruffles too low. Other than those changes, I followed her instructions. I LOVE how it turned out. Very Sassy!

Lesson Five: How to Make a Halloween Pillowcase and Ghost

The excitement for holidays starts with my kids. So, I made my 3 year-old this pillowcase. His friend came over while I was making this ghost and his friend HAD to have one. They played with them all afternoon. Super easy and super fun (and cheap). We will be using the pillow case on Halloween to collect candy. Fun!

What you will need:
1/3 yd white felt
scraps of black felt
batting for stuffing (I used 1/3 of a 12 oz bag for each ghost)
Cut:
2- 9 x 15" rectangles
3- ovals out of the black fabric

Fold rectangle in half. Start 5" down the long side and cut a rounded edge to the center. Use this rectangle as a pattern for the other rectangle.

Place rounded rectangles on top of each other and zigzag the bottoms.

Pin the eyes and mouth on and sew around them.

Sew around the edges using a 1/4" seam allowance. Leave a 2-3" opening, then put the batting in (make sure the batting goes all the way into the zigzag at the bottom).

Now for the Pillowcase:

What you will need:

2/3 yd main fabric (24 inches)

1/3 yd coordinating fabric (10 inches- you'll have a little left over)

Cut:

1- 24 x 45" piece for main fabric

1- 4 x 45" piece out of coordinating fabric

1- 6 x 45" strip for triangles, then cut into 6- 6 x 6" squares and then cut those squares in half to make 12 triangles.

With right sides together sew the coordinating 4 x 45" strip onto the main fabric using 1/4" seam allowance. Press. Then finish the coordinating fabric raw edge by folding under 1/4" and pressing and fold under 1/4" and press again. Then sew along the folded edge.

With right sides together, sew two triangles together along two short sides, leaving the long side open to turn. Repeat for other five triangles. Turn right side out and press. You will have a small portion of the seam sticking out at the open long edge, trim.

Starting 1" from the edge, pin triangles across the top finished edge , over lapping corners a little. Sew triangles to pillowcase.

Fold fabric in half with right sides together. Using a 1" seam allwance sew the side and bottom. Turn right side out and press, then impress your little ones! They will love it.

Flower Bag

The flower ruffle is one of the easiest techniques to add personality to anything. This is my new church bag.

What you need:

2- 17x14" rectangles for main bag fabric

1- 11 x 14" rectangle for inside pocket (When cutting the 17 x 14" rectangle, you should have this amount left)

2- 17 x 14" rectangles lining fabric

3- 6 x 45" strips for ruffles (cut one of these strips into one 12 x 6" and one 33 x 6")

1- 4 x 45" for strap

Total Fabric Requirements:

1/2 yd outside bag fabric (you only need 14" so you will have some extra)

1 yd of lining fabric

Fold the four 6" strips in half and press. Then gather all four pressed pieces. Want to know the easy way to gather? (This is my favorite sewing secret.) Take a piece of string and place it on the raw edge of the fabric. Zigzag stitch across the string the length of the fabric.

Hold one end of the string and pull the other. (Simple right!)

Start making the flower by pinning one gathered 45" strip in a spiral. When pinning, fold under the beginning and end of the strip so that raw edges are hidden.

When you use one strip of fabric, start using the other 45" strip to spiral. Use the 12" piece to make the center of the flower.

Pin the 33" gathered piece onto the other outside bag fabric and sew using 1/2" seam allowance.

With right sides together, sew outside of bag together along the three edges leaving the top open using 1/2" seam allowance.

With right sides together, fold the pocket in half. Sew all three sides leaving a 2" opening to turn right side out. Turn and press. Pin on the inside of bag piece of fabric and sew along three edges, leaving top of pocket open.

Sew the lining of the bag together along the three edges, leaving a three inch opening at the bottom. Make straps by folding the 4 x 45" strip in half, wrong sides together, and sewing closed one short side and the long side using 1/4" seam allowance. Turn strap inside out placing sewn short side over a pencil and pulling fabric down, turning it inside out. Press. Top stitch along both long edges and pin to the outside of bag.

Place the outside of the bag into the lining of bag with right sides together. Sew lining to the outside of bag along the open edge using a 5/8" seam allowance. Pull the outside of bag through the hole left in the lining. Sew opening closed. Press and top stitch around the opening of the bag.

I would love to see your finished bags! Head on over to facebook and post them.

Lesson Three: Pleated Ruffle Pillow

Ready to get sewing!

I really needed a pillow like this in my life. Very simple, yet stunning. This is approximately 11"x 17". I used 1/3 yd of 72" felt. Felt is on sale at JoAnn's right now for $3 a yard and their batting is on sale too. I made this pillow for $4 ($1 for fabric and $3 for batting) and it only took an hour.


You will need
two 12"x18" pieces of felt
five 1.5"x54" pieces of felt (you will have a little extra)
small bag of batting
pins
scissors
matching thread

Starting 3" from one 12" side start making your pleats by pinning one end to the fabric and fold back over itself about 3/4" and pinning. Continue folding and pinning straight down the fabric. Repeat for the rest of the strips leaving 1.5-2" in between each row.


Trim excess strips of fabric.

Sew down the middle of each ruffle. Take out all the pins.

With right sides together using 1/2" seam allowance, sew front (with the ruffles) to the back leaving a 4" opening on the side to turn right side out. Hint: it is best when leaving a side open to not leave a corner open because it is harder to close a corner. Leave 4" open in the middle of a side.

Turn right side out making sure corners are completely turned. Stuff batting inside until the pillow is all the way full. Close the end by handstitching it closed or you can do what I do and use fabric glue.

You did it!

Lesson Two: Tools and Terms

Now that you have gotten your machine out and made friends with her (hopefully you are BFFs by now;), lets talk about tools and terms. These are really basic, but essential to understanding instructions. (Press through the blah stuff and we will be up and sewing the sassy stuff soon, promise!)

Basic Tools: I would reccommend having all of these except pinking shears. You should know what they are and can help you, but aren't necessary.

Cutting Shears: Are used only for fabric and have a straight cutting edge.

Pinking Shears: Are used only for fabric. They have zigzag teeth and they cut fabric zigzag to keep fabric from fraying.

Pin Cushion: A great place to store pins while not in use.

Seam Ripper: Used for removing stitching mistakes. To use, insert only the sharp end under the thread used to stitch the seam. Be careful not to cut fabric threads.

Thread: You will use an all-purpose thread for cotton fabric. Choose a thread that matches your fabric. When matching thread, take your fabric to the store and choose a thread that is slightly darker than your fabric.

Iron and Ironing Board: Ironing the seam after each step makes your project look its best.

TERMS

Back Stitch: A back stitch is used at the beginning and end of a seam to keep the stitches in place.

Basting or Gathering Stitch: Basting is a longer stitch that is used to hold fabric together temporarily or to gather. Your stitch length will be set at 6-8.

Raw Edge: The cut edge of a piece of fabric. This edge will fray if not finished or zigzagged.

Seam Allowance: The measurement from the edge of the fabric to the stitches.

Topstitching: Stitching that shows on the outside of the garment or project.

Wrong-sides Together: Place the two pretty sides of the fabric together and sew along the back of the fabric.

You made it! One more post of instructions and then on to our first project.