Sassy Tips for Simple Sewing

Niece Skirt Tutorial: Lauryn

2010-10-21T14:24:00.000-07:00

Cutting instructions for size 7-8:

Top Piece: 15" x 45"

White Lining: 14"x 45"

Tier 1: 4"x 45"

Tier 2: 6" x 45"

Pocket:

5 1/2" x 5 1/2"

3" x 5 1/2"

For smaller sizes subtract 1" per size on the top piece and lining piece and 1/2" for the tiers. (For example: Size 5-6 top piece 14", lining 13", tier 1-3 1/2", tier 2- 5 1/2" all x 45")

1. Cut out fabric. Fold white lining fabric and top piece in half with right sides together and sew along side raw edge using 5/8" seam allowance forming a tube.

2. Finish one long edge of the two tiers and bottom edge of top piece by folding under 1/4" and pressing then turning under another 1/4", pressing and then sewing along the edge. Then, lay tiers on top of each other with the longer tier at the bottom. Sew the tiers together at long raw edge.

3. With right sides together, pin tiers onto the white lining piece and sew together.

To make a pocket:

Fold the 3"x 5 1/2" piece in half and press to make a 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" piece. With right sides together sew pressed strip to top of pocket. Press. Finish three raw edges.Pin on skirt where you would like the pocket to be and sew around three edges leaving the top edge open. I put mine opposite of the back seam and 3-4" from the bottom.

Place the top piece on top of the lining piece and zigzag stitch together at raw edges. Fold under zigazgged edge 1" and press and then sew along edge leaving a 2" opening. Thread elastic through the casing you just made using a safety pin. Then sew ends of the elastic together and sew opening closed.

You did it!

Lauryn: Simple, Sweet, Practical

2010-10-21T13:30:00.000-07:00

We found out we are having another baby boy! Yay! And for any one counting that makes my child count boys 3, girls 0. I may not have any baby girls, but I do have a lot of nieces, 13 total. My creative sister and I made up the following survey to find out the style personality of each niece in our family. My plan is to send the survey for my nieces, then make a skirt that coordinates to that girl's personality and then show you how I made the skirt. Sound good?!

First up is Lauryn. She is a no-nonsense kind of a girl who's first priority is practicality and she loves simple style. She is a girl who likes to be in charge and get things done. She is not content with choosing one style and sticking with it.

Here is the survey about Lauryn (as answered by her mom) and the tutorial will follow in a separate post:

While playing house your little girl takes on the role of:

Mom
Teacher
Kitty Cat
The Movie Star Next-door

Her favorite dessert is:

Cupcake
Banana Split
Chocolate Brownie
Strawberry Shortcake
Crème Brule

How does she prefer her hair?

Two Braids
Tight Curls
A-Line, she means business
Doesn’t care as long as it is out of her face

When dressing herself, she comes out of her bedroom dressed for:

A Super Hero Convention
Gymnastics Meet
Fancy Ball
A Square Dance
An 80’s Music Video

What children’s book character best describes her personality?

Fancy Nancy
Pippy Long Stockings
Madeline
Olivia
Dorothy, from the Wizard of Oz
The Paper-bag Princess

What flavor of snow cone would she be?

Blue Raspberry
Pina Colada
Cotton Candy
Pink Lemonade

What best describes her signature colors?

Somewhere Over the Rainbow
Pinkaliscious
Natural Girl
Life is Like a Bowl of Cherries

How does she take her toast?

Cinnamon and Sugar
Just butter
Lots of Jam
Nuttela

What does she like best about summer?

Lemonade Stands
Fireworks
Swimming
Popsicles

While hosting a tea party, what is she most excited to do?

Pour the Tea
Make Invitations
Help People Get Dressed Up
Cut the Cake

What is her favorite ice cream topping?

Sprinkles
Whipped Cream with a Cherry on Top
Chocolate Fudge
All of the Above

She is best described as:

Sassy
Classy
Whimsical
Dainty
Feminine
Playful
Sweet
Lovely

How to Read a Pattern 101

2010-09-29T21:33:00.000-07:00

It is almost Halloween right? So, let's talk about some ScARy things of sewing. Reading a pattern is up there for me. Just thinking about it, I can feel the weight of the pattern in my hand and the glare of the lady at the cutting counter as she asks me for the third time, "Now, how much fabric did you want." Let's face it, this is scary stuff.

Once you look through the pattern book and find the dress or skirt that you want, look for the pattern number in the top left corner. Just to the right of the pattern number is the sizing. It is important that you buy the right pattern for your size. Usually for women's patterns there is a smaller sized pattern from 2-10 and a bigger sized patter from 8-16. Also, when you are buying women's pattern you want to buy and cut out one or two sizes bigger than your normal size. Women's patterns are sized small and it is much easier to take in a skirt than to cut out a new one.

On the back of the pattern you will find a list of everything that you need to make the item. Choose which view you want to make and then find that letter on the chart. The sizes run across the very top of the chart. Find your view (represented by a letter) then find your size. Where these meet will tell you how much fabric you will need.

There is also a "Notions" section. This will tell you everything that you need to make the dress. Look at this before you leave the store so that you make sure you have everything you need to complete the project.

When you open your pattern, you will find a few sheets of paper with instructions on it. The first one will have the cutting instructions.
There is also a diagram of all the pattern pieces. Under the diagram is a list of all the pieces with a letter to the right. The letters correspond with the view of the dress that you are making. If there are no letters to the right, then all views need those pieces. For example, pieces 1 and 2 on this pattern, will be cut out for all views of the skirt. A helpful hint: when I am figuring out which pieces to cut out, I mark the ones that I need with a little dot, so that I don't forget anything or cut out something I shouldn't.

This picture shows cutting layouts, so you can best use your fabric.

On the right corner of the front page, there is a "General Directions" page. It tells you all about the signs on the pattern pieces, how to lengthen and shorten your dress and other great things.

Each pattern piece has their number and description on it. This one is "#1 Front and Back". It tells you how many to cut and where to place the fabric. The notches or little triangles on the side are to be cut into the fabric. They will help you line up the other pieces when you sew them together.

So, did that help? I hope that you feel a little less fearful of that lady standing behind the counter. She really is just there to help (just ask her, she'll tell you).

Thank you Kara May

2010-09-29T08:53:00.000-07:00

Kara May is a fantastic children's photographer here in Phoenix. She photographed my new fall line (found here). She always does such an amazing job. I LOVE these pictures. For more of the photo shoot, visit her blog.

Ruffle Skirt

2010-09-24T21:57:00.001-07:00

This apron tutorial is from Krista Maurer's blog. I saw it and loved. It is also a wonderful way to practice the ruffling trick we talked about in the Flower Bag tutorial. This is an easy project, just a little bit time consuming.

My changes to the tutorial for more efficient fabric use:

I cut two 18"x 22" pieces for the apron base (she uses two 18" x 24" pieces)

and for the ruffles I made them 4" x 45", which is the width of the fabric, (she uses 4" x 36").

After I sewed all the ruffles on, I had to cut a little bit off the top of the apron base. I must have started my ruffles too low. Other than those changes, I followed her instructions. I LOVE how it turned out. Very Sassy!

Lesson Five: How to Make a Halloween Pillowcase and Ghost

2010-09-16T21:50:00.000-07:00

The excitement for holidays starts with my kids. So, I made my 3 year-old this pillowcase. His friend came over while I was making this ghost and his friend HAD to have one. They played with them all afternoon. Super easy and super fun (and cheap). We will be using the pillow case on Halloween to collect candy. Fun!

What you will need:
1/3 yd white felt
scraps of black felt
batting for stuffing (I used 1/3 of a 12 oz bag for each ghost)
Cut:
2- 9 x 15" rectangles
3- ovals out of the black fabric

Fold rectangle in half. Start 5" down the long side and cut a rounded edge to the center. Use this rectangle as a pattern for the other rectangle.

Place rounded rectangles on top of each other and zigzag the bottoms.

Pin the eyes and mouth on and sew around them.

Sew around the edges using a 1/4" seam allowance. Leave a 2-3" opening, then put the batting in (make sure the batting goes all the way into the zigzag at the bottom).

Now for the Pillowcase:

What you will need:

2/3 yd main fabric (24 inches)

1/3 yd coordinating fabric (10 inches- you'll have a little left over)

Cut:

1- 24 x 45" piece for main fabric

1- 4 x 45" piece out of coordinating fabric

1- 6 x 45" strip for triangles, then cut into 6- 6 x 6" squares and then cut those squares in half to make 12 triangles.

With right sides together sew the coordinating 4 x 45" strip onto the main fabric using 1/4" seam allowance. Press. Then finish the coordinating fabric raw edge by folding under 1/4" and pressing and fold under 1/4" and press again. Then sew along the folded edge.

With right sides together, sew two triangles together along two short sides, leaving the long side open to turn. Repeat for other five triangles. Turn right side out and press. You will have a small portion of the seam sticking out at the open long edge, trim.

Starting 1" from the edge, pin triangles across the top finished edge , over lapping corners a little. Sew triangles to pillowcase.

Fold fabric in half with right sides together. Using a 1" seam allwance sew the side and bottom. Turn right side out and press, then impress your little ones! They will love it.

Flower Bag

2010-09-11T20:19:00.000-07:00

The flower ruffle is one of the easiest techniques to add personality to anything. This is my new church bag.

What you need:

2- 17x14" rectangles for main bag fabric

1- 11 x 14" rectangle for inside pocket (When cutting the 17 x 14" rectangle, you should have this amount left)

2- 17 x 14" rectangles lining fabric

3- 6 x 45" strips for ruffles (cut one of these strips into one 12 x 6" and one 33 x 6")

1- 4 x 45" for strap

Total Fabric Requirements:

1/2 yd outside bag fabric (you only need 14" so you will have some extra)

1 yd of lining fabric

Fold the four 6" strips in half and press. Then gather all four pressed pieces. Want to know the easy way to gather? (This is my favorite sewing secret.) Take a piece of string and place it on the raw edge of the fabric. Zigzag stitch across the string the length of the fabric.

Hold one end of the string and pull the other. (Simple right!)

Start making the flower by pinning one gathered 45" strip in a spiral. When pinning, fold under the beginning and end of the strip so that raw edges are hidden.

When you use one strip of fabric, start using the other 45" strip to spiral. Use the 12" piece to make the center of the flower.

Pin the 33" gathered piece onto the other outside bag fabric and sew using 1/2" seam allowance.

With right sides together, sew outside of bag together along the three edges leaving the top open using 1/2" seam allowance.

With right sides together, fold the pocket in half. Sew all three sides leaving a 2" opening to turn right side out. Turn and press. Pin on the inside of bag piece of fabric and sew along three edges, leaving top of pocket open.

Sew the lining of the bag together along the three edges, leaving a three inch opening at the bottom. Make straps by folding the 4 x 45" strip in half, wrong sides together, and sewing closed one short side and the long side using 1/4" seam allowance. Turn strap inside out placing sewn short side over a pencil and pulling fabric down, turning it inside out. Press. Top stitch along both long edges and pin to the outside of bag.

Place the outside of the bag into the lining of bag with right sides together. Sew lining to the outside of bag along the open edge using a 5/8" seam allowance. Pull the outside of bag through the hole left in the lining. Sew opening closed. Press and top stitch around the opening of the bag.

I would love to see your finished bags! Head on over to facebook and post them.

Lesson Three: Pleated Ruffle Pillow

2010-09-07T13:59:00.001-07:00

Ready to get sewing!

I really needed a pillow like this in my life. Very simple, yet stunning. This is approximately 11"x 17". I used 1/3 yd of 72" felt. Felt is on sale at JoAnn's right now for $3 a yard and their batting is on sale too. I made this pillow for $4 ($1 for fabric and $3 for batting) and it only took an hour.

You will need
two 12"x18" pieces of felt
five 1.5"x54" pieces of felt (you will have a little extra)
small bag of batting
pins
scissors
matching thread

Starting 3" from one 12" side start making your pleats by pinning one end to the fabric and fold back over itself about 3/4" and pinning. Continue folding and pinning straight down the fabric. Repeat for the rest of the strips leaving 1.5-2" in between each row.

Trim excess strips of fabric.

Sew down the middle of each ruffle. Take out all the pins.

With right sides together using 1/2" seam allowance, sew front (with the ruffles) to the back leaving a 4" opening on the side to turn right side out. Hint: it is best when leaving a side open to not leave a corner open because it is harder to close a corner. Leave 4" open in the middle of a side.

Turn right side out making sure corners are completely turned. Stuff batting inside until the pillow is all the way full. Close the end by handstitching it closed or you can do what I do and use fabric glue.

You did it!

Lesson Two: Tools and Terms

2010-09-02T22:35:00.000-07:00

Now that you have gotten your machine out and made friends with her (hopefully you are BFFs by now;), lets talk about tools and terms. These are really basic, but essential to understanding instructions. (Press through the blah stuff and we will be up and sewing the sassy stuff soon, promise!)

Basic Tools: I would reccommend having all of these except pinking shears. You should know what they are and can help you, but aren't necessary.

Cutting Shears: Are used only for fabric and have a straight cutting edge.

Pinking Shears: Are used only for fabric. They have zigzag teeth and they cut fabric zigzag to keep fabric from fraying.

Pin Cushion: A great place to store pins while not in use.

Seam Ripper: Used for removing stitching mistakes. To use, insert only the sharp end under the thread used to stitch the seam. Be careful not to cut fabric threads.

Thread: You will use an all-purpose thread for cotton fabric. Choose a thread that matches your fabric. When matching thread, take your fabric to the store and choose a thread that is slightly darker than your fabric.

Iron and Ironing Board: Ironing the seam after each step makes your project look its best.

TERMS

Back Stitch: A back stitch is used at the beginning and end of a seam to keep the stitches in place.

Basting or Gathering Stitch: Basting is a longer stitch that is used to hold fabric together temporarily or to gather. Your stitch length will be set at 6-8.

Raw Edge: The cut edge of a piece of fabric. This edge will fray if not finished or zigzagged.

Seam Allowance: The measurement from the edge of the fabric to the stitches.

Topstitching: Stitching that shows on the outside of the garment or project.

Wrong-sides Together: Place the two pretty sides of the fabric together and sew along the back of the fabric.

You made it! One more post of instructions and then on to our first project.

Lesson One: Getting to Know Your Machine

2010-08-31T15:11:00.000-07:00

All right ladies, it is time to get sewing and just like your first day of school, we need to get to know each other and the tools that will help us get where we want to go. My name is Michelle. I am passionate about sewing. I try to make sewing as simple and easy as possible. That is why I began Oh, So Sassy. I promise to show you the right AND the easy way to do things so that you will enjoy sewing as much as I do.

Now let's get to know your machine. Let's face it, your sewing machine can be your BFF or it can be like that girl in your fourth grade class that looked and acted like your friend, but when it came right down to it was never there when you needed her. (I have had friends and sewing machines like the latter and there not worth having if you ask me.)

My favorite machine has been my old Bernina that we got off ebay. It is an old work horse of a machine, not too fancy but gets the job done. It has become my BFF.

You really can sew on any machine, just like you can be friends with anyone, but some take care of you better than others.

If you have a manual for your machine, get it out and look over each part on the outside of the machine. You can go to sewusa.com and order a manual if yours is lost. Here is a basic picture and explanation of each part you will use.

Power Switch: This turns the machine on.
Presser Foot: Holds fabric in place while you sew. It can go up and down. Lower the foot while sewing and lift to take fabric out.
Presser Foot Lifter: This is the lever that lowers and lifts the presser foot.
Throat Plate: Metal plate between needle and presser foot.
Feed Dogs: Pulls the fabric forward and backward during sewing.
Needle: Goes up and down through fabric to make stitches. Needles come in different sizes. The bigger the number the bigger the needle. For sewing cotton fabrics use size 10 or 12.
Thread Take-up: Part of threading the machine. Moves thread up and down while sewing.
Upper Tension Regulator: Determines tension on thread. Set on middle setting for cotton fabric and all purpose thread.
Thread Guide: Guides the thread while sewing. This is part of threading the machine.
Spool Pin: Where you place the spool of thread.
Bobbin Winder: Used to wind bobbin.
Balance Wheel: When turned, moves needle up and down.
Stitch Length Regulator: This determines how long your stitch lengths will be. Set at 2.5-3 for sewing most seams and 6-8 for basting or gathering.
Stitch Width Regulator: This determines how wide you zigzag stitch will be. During normal, straight stitch sewing this will be on zero.
Bobbin: Holds the thread that goes underneath the presser foot.

16. Foot Control: Press this with your foot to make your sewing machine go.

Sewing with PjVietti

2010-04-02T21:11:00.000-07:00

These little girls are super sassy and so model-rific!

pjvietti said "I got both of my DIY kits today and finished one (quite the feat since I had so much else going on) you make my girls look so amazing. The way you pair fabric patterns is genius. Your dress patterns and instructions are so simple and amazing that I can't even tell you how much you have changed my life!!!! These are my 5th and 6th DIY kits I have purchased since December. I am obviously in LOVE with your work!! You are my (not so little) secret! My girls are the best dressed girls in town thanks to you. EVERYONE always asks where I bought these amazing dresses and when I tell them what I paid and that I made them myself they are astounded!" (I love this lady!)

Sewing Party

2010-04-02T20:50:00.000-07:00

Sewing is fun, but sewing with friends is crazy fun! My friends and I had our first sewing party. We got all the girls together, brought our sewing machines and talked and laughed over the whirrr of our Berninas. And the best part...we all left with a sassy dress and a smile on our face.
Thanks ladies, it was a blast!

(Want to save 10% on your dress kit and have a party doing it? Contact me for more information on hosting your own sewing party!)

Turning 2 Never Looked So Sassy

2010-03-24T09:37:00.000-07:00

Juneaux says:
"Sew Easy! A snap to put together - nice directions, everything worked just perfectly. My daughter will look lovely in her special birthday dress! Thank you!"